Tuesday 20 October 2015

Such Is Life

Ned Kelly has arguably become Australia's best known historical character.  Despite his status as a common criminal, he is known to have displayed those qualities ordinary Aussies admire.  He was a larrikin.  He was loyal to his family and ready to sacrifice himself for his mates.  He represented the underdog.  He thumbed his nose at the establishment.  And he was fearless.

We came to Kelly country to immerse ourselves in bushranger history, and we've certainly come to the right place!  Ned is everywhere here, starting at the lovely Glenrowan Tourist Park.


Our first stop in town was the Glenrowan Tourist Centre.  Here we met Bob Hempel, Head Dreamer and colourful local character whose lifelong passion has been the creation of this unique theatre production (and who claims his great grand father was responsible for making Ned's unique armour!) 


We took a walk back in history and participated in this interactive, theatrical production of Ned Kelly's Last Stand.  Through animation and computerised robots, we were transferred back in time over 100 years, to witness the events that led up to the capture of the Kelly Gang.


It was fun and a little bit scary.  We started out as hostages in the hotel, then found ourselves in the middle of a gunfight.  We huddled together inside a burning building, and were there to witness Ned's final demise, which Fletch called his hanging up.
 
It may not have been particularly historically correct, and parts of it were difficult to follow, but it was full of moving, life sized people and animals, dust, dirt, ashes, spiders, webs, smoke, gunshots,  booming voices and thick accents.  It was theatrical magic, mystery and mayhem, and it was fun!


Upon farewelling Bob we headed down the main street to Kate's Cottage and the Ned Kelly Museum, which houses the authentically reconstructed replica of the Kelly Homestead as it was prior to 1880.


The museum was fascinating and the grounds were a lovely place to enjoy our picnic lunch.  Unfortunately, the caravan's axles took another hit with us leaving Kate's Cottage Gifts & Souvenir Shop loaded with Ned Kelly tea-towels, magnets, DVDs and a true to life Ned Kelly pistol and tin helmet! (see below)


On the way home, despite the sudden thunder storm, we spent time wandering along the Glenrowan Heritage Siege Precinct.  This includes the key sites of the final Kelly conflict, including the original railway platform, the site of Anne Jones's Glenrowan Inn (which police burnt to the ground) and the site of Ned Kelly's fall and capture (the 'Kelly Log' site).

On Monday 28th June 1880, the siege of the Kelly Gang in Ann Jones' Glenrowan Inn was an event that has been indelibly etched in the panorama of Australian history, folklore and the nation's conscience.  Coming at the end of two days' occupation of the township by the Gang, the 12 hour siege led to the capture of Ned Kelly and to the destruction of the Gang.

While it is interesting to read the history of the events and/or see it in pictorial form, it was something else to stand at the actual location where the pivotal siege events took place and imagine the scene unfolding before me. 


Now just an overgrown paddock, there was an eeriness about the site that was palpable.  An Aussie Sacred Site, giving us an insight into a moment that helped to shape our nation.

 Ned Kelly murdered police officers, was outlawed and could be shot on sight by anyone.  Yet when he was sentenced to hang, more than 30 000 people signed a petition asking for a reprieve.

And just because we hadn't had quite enough of bushrangers for today, we finished the evening off watching the first episode of The Last Outlaw, the story of the Kelly Gang starring John Jarratt, Steve Bisley and Sigrid Thornton.


Note:  There is conjecture among researchers as to whether Ned Kelly even said "Such is Life" in his final moments.  It is believed that what Ned actually said was "Ahh well, so it has come to this."  Wouldn't have looked nearly as good on a tattoo, though...

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